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Change Car Rear Silencer Mercedes-Benz GLS

Change Car Rear Silencer

Easy 1h30 ~150£
Estimated time 1h30
Estimated labour cost ~150£
Difficulty Easy
Remove/refit the silencer 1h30
Renew the silencer 1h30
Remove/refit the left silencer 1h30
Renew the left silencer 1h30
Remove/refit the right silencer 1h30
Renew the right silencer 1h30
Remove/refit both silencers 1h30
Renew both silencers 1h30
Repair the silencer* 1h30
Repair the front silencer* 1h30
Align the front silencer* 0h30
Repair the main silencer 0h30
Align the main silencer* 0h30
Difficult main silencer removal* 0h30
Remove/refit the rear left silencer 1h30
Renew the rear left silencer 2h00
Remove/refit the rear right silencer 1h30
Renew the rear right silencer 2h00
Remove/refit both rear silencers 2h00
Renew both rear silencers 2h30
Repair the rear silencer 0h30
Weld a sheet-metal repair panel onto the rear silencer* 0h45
Difficult rear silencer removal* 0h30
Renew the centre silencer 2h00
Remove/refit the centre silencer 2h00
Repair the main silencer* 1h30
Remove/refit the rear silencer 1h30
Renew the rear silencer 1h30
Repair the rear silencer* 1h30

What is a Mercedes-Benz GLS rear silencer?

The rear silencer (also called the back box or rear muffler) reduces exhaust noise to an acceptable level. It is located at the end of the exhaust line, after the catalytic converter, particulate filter (if fitted), and sometimes an intermediate silencer.

When should you change the Mercedes-Benz GLS rear silencer?

No periodic replacement interval is specified. Carry out regular visual inspections for corrosion, holes, and deteriorated mounting rubbers. Signs that replacement is needed: louder exhaust noise, rattling from loose baffles, visible rust holes, exhaust fumes entering the cabin, or failure at the MOT/roadworthiness test.

Is it difficult to change the Mercedes-Benz GLS rear silencer?

Difficulty level 2/5: technically easy but may require effort if bolts and clamps are rusted. Key steps: raise the vehicle, apply penetrating oil to clamp bolts, remove the clamp connecting the silencer to the intermediate pipe, remove the mounting rubber hangers, fit the new silencer with new gasket/clamp, reattach mounting rubbers, check for leaks with engine running.